Pattern Making

Pattern making is an art form that is often overlooked in today’s fast-paced, consumer-driven, ready-to-wear fashion landscape. It is the pattern makers who give concrete form to a designer’s inspiration by creating the perfect cut. The craft of pattern making has evolved over several centuries, particularly in the field of menswear. The profession of bespoke men’s tailoring has existed in Germany for over a millennium and encompasses the region’s rich cultural history. At the end of the nineteenth century, Michael Müller invented the original Müller & Sohn cutting system in Munich, allowing for designs to be converted into cuts with a precise fit. This cutting system still leads the world market in design today and has been constantly used and adapted in innovative ways to meet the demands of modern consumers.

For this collaboration, made/in worked with designer and pattern maker Kai Lehmann, who demonstrates the process of creating a custom-made men’s jacket. Lehmann is currently a professor of model design, pattern design and CAD (Computer Aided Design) at the University of the Arts Bremen. He was previously a guest lecturer in the menswear master’s programme at the Royal College of Art in London. His experience includes working for prestigious brands such as Vivienne Westwood and Hugo Boss as well as running his own menswear label called Suit E. Here Lehmann takes us through the details for creating a perfectly tailored suit.

The transition from pattern making and bespoke tailoring is fluid. Tailoring as a craft requires a combination of skill, precision and attention to detail. A customized tailor-made suit can cost anywhere from three- to six thousand euros – and upwards. It could take from four to six weeks to create, including at least three fitting sessions. The price of a well-made suit depends on the expertise of the tailor, the equipment used, and most importantly, the quality of the fabric.

In the spring of 2022, UNESCO will decide whether the craft of tailoring – and terms such as “tailoring” and “men’s tailor” – will be included on the list of Intangible Cultural Heritage in Germany. Technical terms such as “bespoke work” and “men’s tailor” also need to be protected. Similar terms such as “bespoke” or “made-to-measure” are only suggestive of customized tailoring, but that is only partly true. The aim is to preserve this craft along with the methods and services associated with it.

Photos by Astrid Grosser